Edomae Sushi, Explained for the First-Time Guest

Cured, aged and brushed with nikiri: what the old Tokyo style does to fish, and why it still matters. It sounds like a small thing until you have sat at the counter a few times, and then it is most of what you remember.

One bite, straight away

Each piece is made for the moment it is set down. Eat it in one bite, within a few seconds, before the rice cools and the fish warms. It has already been seasoned, so there is no need to reach for the soy sauce.

Sake follows the fish

Lighter, more fragrant sakes suit the opening pieces, and fuller, rice-forward ones stand up to tuna and grilled courses. If in doubt, ask the counter to choose -- most keep a few bottles that match the menu they are serving.

If there is a counter you think we should sit at next, write and tell us -- the best suggestions become the next visit.