The Itamae Who Left Tokyo for a Fishing Town

Why one of the city's most booked chefs moved to the coast, and what it did to his menu. It sounds like a small thing until you have sat at the counter a few times, and then it is most of what you remember.

Ginger is a palate cleanser

Gari, the pickled ginger, is there to reset your mouth between pieces, not to be heaped onto them. A sliver between courses is enough; a pile on top of the fish undoes the chef's work.

Say what you cannot eat

Allergies and dislikes are best mentioned when booking, not halfway through the meal. The chef plans the evening around the fish they bought that morning, and a little notice lets them swap a piece rather than leave a gap.

If there is a counter you think we should sit at next, write and tell us -- the best suggestions become the next visit.