Uni From Hokkaido to Santa Barbara

Sea urchin changes with the water it grows in. A tasting across three oceans. It sounds like a small thing until you have sat at the counter a few times, and then it is most of what you remember.

Sake follows the fish

Lighter, more fragrant sakes suit the opening pieces, and fuller, rice-forward ones stand up to tuna and grilled courses. If in doubt, ask the counter to choose -- most keep a few bottles that match the menu they are serving.

Trust the order

An omakase menu runs from light to rich for a reason. Delicate white fish come first, while the palate is clean; the oily, fatty cuts arrive later, when they will not drown out anything after them. Asking to skip ahead usually means tasting less.

If there is a counter you think we should sit at next, write and tell us -- the best suggestions become the next visit.